So today is Day 7 in Ethiopia -- and night 8!! We haven't posted because we are unable to read our own posts . . . BUT we hear from a reliable source that our posts are visible to you so we'll give it a shot.
We arrived in Addis last Sunday evening and checked in at the Sheraton -- reputedly the best hotel in Africa and it fully lives up to that billing -- and spent a short night before ditching most of our bags at the hotel and heading north to Lalibela and Axum.
We arrived in Addis last Sunday evening and checked in at the Sheraton -- reputedly the best hotel in Africa and it fully lives up to that billing -- and spent a short night before ditching most of our bags at the hotel and heading north to Lalibela and Axum.
Arriving Lalibela was truly a step back to another place in time. The mountains there are lush and green and the earth is as black as Iowa dirt -- Chris thinks it might even be blacker. But the farming is still done manually with oxen and primitive wooden plows with a bit of tin tacked onto the end to tear at the soil. The life for those folks is tough. Yet they all manage a wave and a smile and seem genuinely happy and curious to see the strange foreigners arrive. And the children are just beautiful and very safe and very free as they seem to run around the mountains.
Lalibela is home to a dozen churches (plus many more in the surrounding area) hewn entirely out of stone and the churches were fantastic to visit. The churches are still active today and this is really the spiritual seat of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. Perhaps our favorite site came at the end of the day when we headed 7 km out of town to a monastery that is in the cave of a cliff face. It was easily one of the most spiritual places we have ever seen and we could have happily just sat for a spell but that wasn't really on the agenda.
The next day we headed to Axum and had a great time visiting the stella -- massive many ton single pieces of stone that stand in fields as monuments to deceased of many eons ago. There are numerous sites around Axum that are pre B.C. as well as it being the birthplace of the Queen of Sheba (as in King Solomon's Sheba in the Bible). So that was another great day.
Our guides were terrific and everyone in the north of Ethiopia now is in love with a little blond boy named Connor . . . . let's just say he was a hit everywhere went -- and the Ethiopians love children like nothing we have ever seen. We finally made it back to Addis (from Axum via Lalibela and then Gonder and then Bahir Dar!!!!) and arrived almost 3 hours later than planned on Wednesday.
So Thursday was Baby Abraham Day. One of the caregivers from Gladney Foster Home came with Belay -- who runs the entire Gladney program here and is quite simply a local saint -- and brought Abraham to the hotel room. We fell in love the instant we laid eyes on him -- and he really is a dream.
Abraham had a stomach bug for the first 24 hours after we got him and we asked to go to a doctor so we ended up visiting a clinic on Friday afternoon -- so we have also now had a brief foray into the Ethiopian healthcare system!! It was a private clinic and our experience was first rate . . . Abraham is on antibiotic now and on the mend. Today he ate like the bottle was bottomless so we think he must be making up for the previous 48 hours. He is doing well :-).
Connor has been brilliant in the role of big brother -- and only today finally started seeming to really need Mama and Daddy attention in a serious way. That said, he loves to hold and tickle and feed and talk to and read to and kiss and touch Abraham. For Abraham's part, he is sweet and extremely alert, attentive and engaged. He smiles easily and seems to like his new family. As I write, Chris is sitting here giving him his bottle - -which we hope will sustain him until about 3 a.m.!!!!
So back to the 'tour' . . . on Friday, we went to the first two of three orphanages that we have visited. Let's just say it has been a tough education. The first one was a government orphanage from which Gladney places many children. By Ethiopian law, a child must first go to a government orphanage before the child can be moved to a private orphanage -- like Gladney House. The first orphanage housed probably 70 children from 0 to 10, and it was impossible not to be heartbroken in the face of such beautiful children. They are such innocents in the midst of it all . . . and invariably one or two will simply walk up and attach themselves to the visiting adults. They just hold your hand or reach up to be picked up and hugged or - in Chris' case -- they want to kick or throw a ball with the men . . . so we obliged but it breaks your heart in so many ways.
The second orphanage is a private one that housed 17 children. And then Saturday we visited the third -- also a government orphanage. It is technically the girls orphanage but has children of both genders from ages 0 to 18 -- when (not terribly different from the US system) they are given some cash and sent on their way. The director there tries to keep the boys who come to him for as long as he can because the government boys orphanage is such a tough place. Connor -- God Bless him -- thought it was all one great playdate after another. He kicked soccer balls and played games and made instant 'friends' . . . and asked lots of tough, probing, pointed questions.
As for Belay . . . we have learned such a great deal from him and he has a very special place in our hearts. He knows virtually every child we met in these orphanages by name. He knows their stories. He is working diligently to find them families. He is an extraordinary Ethiopian man and it has been a pleasure to get to know him and through him to learn more about the plight of many of the children here. . . . each story is so personal for each child and it makes it impossible to think of them as anything other than what they are . . . individual beautiful children who need and deserve the homes and parents that they do not have -- through no fault of their own.
So back to our activities. . . Yesterday morning, we met the mother of a family friend -- Netsanet -- who lives in Asheville. We had a brief visit and exchanged some great photo albums from Netsanet and her husband, Sam. Elizabeth needed a break so she stayed in with Abraham while Connor and Chris hit the shops. They did some truly excellent shopping and then upon their return we all headed out for lunch and a visit to an art gallery. We returned to the hotel late afternoon and called it a night. Ordered room service. Put the 'do not disturb' sign out and hit the sack!!
This morning -- in response to Connor's need for (1) some activity other than driving in a car, sightseeing or going to a restaurant and (2) some Connor-focused attention -- we decided to forgo church in favor of a morning in the pool. Chris and Abraham sat poolside and studied each other in rapt fascination (and thoroughly entertained each other) for two hours while Elizabeth and Connor played in the pool. The air temperature is a bit like October in DC -- cool and crisp with warm spells (Addis Ababa is the third highest capital city in the world) -- but the pools are heated and just felt fantastic. We had a great time, had Sunday brunch at the hotel, returned to the shop to collect our art purchases, did a drive around town with our driver (Tafessa -- who we adore and will have to be the subject of another posting!!) and then headed south about 1.5 hours to a crater lake and a restaurant that sits over it for dinner with the other Gladney families who are here adopting. (Also the subject of another posting!!). And I have made one major omission here, which we will cover in another posting, we met Abraham's birth mother as well. She is young -- probably younger than the 18 years she claims. It was very tough and very emotional but we are grateful that she wanted to meet us. We were able to learn a bit more information about her for Abraham so that when the day comes that he wants to know more about where he comes from, we are able to tell him. Through Gladney, we will be able to send news of Abraham's development as he grows up.
So we are doing well, and now it is getting late. Connor fell asleep in the car on the way back from the restaurant at the crater lake, so it is peaceful and quiet here . . .and we should grab some shut eye while we can . . . so more soon.
Tomorrow we are off to see Lucy (of Rift Valley fame) at the National Museum, visit another art gallery and see a bit more of Addis. We also have it on good authority that the best Italian restaurant in the world (outside of Italy) is here in Addis . . . so we think we'll try it out tomorrow night. The days are flying by and we'll be flying home before we know it . . . so we are making the most of it!!!
Lalibela is home to a dozen churches (plus many more in the surrounding area) hewn entirely out of stone and the churches were fantastic to visit. The churches are still active today and this is really the spiritual seat of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. Perhaps our favorite site came at the end of the day when we headed 7 km out of town to a monastery that is in the cave of a cliff face. It was easily one of the most spiritual places we have ever seen and we could have happily just sat for a spell but that wasn't really on the agenda.
The next day we headed to Axum and had a great time visiting the stella -- massive many ton single pieces of stone that stand in fields as monuments to deceased of many eons ago. There are numerous sites around Axum that are pre B.C. as well as it being the birthplace of the Queen of Sheba (as in King Solomon's Sheba in the Bible). So that was another great day.
Our guides were terrific and everyone in the north of Ethiopia now is in love with a little blond boy named Connor . . . . let's just say he was a hit everywhere went -- and the Ethiopians love children like nothing we have ever seen. We finally made it back to Addis (from Axum via Lalibela and then Gonder and then Bahir Dar!!!!) and arrived almost 3 hours later than planned on Wednesday.
So Thursday was Baby Abraham Day. One of the caregivers from Gladney Foster Home came with Belay -- who runs the entire Gladney program here and is quite simply a local saint -- and brought Abraham to the hotel room. We fell in love the instant we laid eyes on him -- and he really is a dream.
Abraham had a stomach bug for the first 24 hours after we got him and we asked to go to a doctor so we ended up visiting a clinic on Friday afternoon -- so we have also now had a brief foray into the Ethiopian healthcare system!! It was a private clinic and our experience was first rate . . . Abraham is on antibiotic now and on the mend. Today he ate like the bottle was bottomless so we think he must be making up for the previous 48 hours. He is doing well :-).
Connor has been brilliant in the role of big brother -- and only today finally started seeming to really need Mama and Daddy attention in a serious way. That said, he loves to hold and tickle and feed and talk to and read to and kiss and touch Abraham. For Abraham's part, he is sweet and extremely alert, attentive and engaged. He smiles easily and seems to like his new family. As I write, Chris is sitting here giving him his bottle - -which we hope will sustain him until about 3 a.m.!!!!
So back to the 'tour' . . . on Friday, we went to the first two of three orphanages that we have visited. Let's just say it has been a tough education. The first one was a government orphanage from which Gladney places many children. By Ethiopian law, a child must first go to a government orphanage before the child can be moved to a private orphanage -- like Gladney House. The first orphanage housed probably 70 children from 0 to 10, and it was impossible not to be heartbroken in the face of such beautiful children. They are such innocents in the midst of it all . . . and invariably one or two will simply walk up and attach themselves to the visiting adults. They just hold your hand or reach up to be picked up and hugged or - in Chris' case -- they want to kick or throw a ball with the men . . . so we obliged but it breaks your heart in so many ways.
The second orphanage is a private one that housed 17 children. And then Saturday we visited the third -- also a government orphanage. It is technically the girls orphanage but has children of both genders from ages 0 to 18 -- when (not terribly different from the US system) they are given some cash and sent on their way. The director there tries to keep the boys who come to him for as long as he can because the government boys orphanage is such a tough place. Connor -- God Bless him -- thought it was all one great playdate after another. He kicked soccer balls and played games and made instant 'friends' . . . and asked lots of tough, probing, pointed questions.
As for Belay . . . we have learned such a great deal from him and he has a very special place in our hearts. He knows virtually every child we met in these orphanages by name. He knows their stories. He is working diligently to find them families. He is an extraordinary Ethiopian man and it has been a pleasure to get to know him and through him to learn more about the plight of many of the children here. . . . each story is so personal for each child and it makes it impossible to think of them as anything other than what they are . . . individual beautiful children who need and deserve the homes and parents that they do not have -- through no fault of their own.
So back to our activities. . . Yesterday morning, we met the mother of a family friend -- Netsanet -- who lives in Asheville. We had a brief visit and exchanged some great photo albums from Netsanet and her husband, Sam. Elizabeth needed a break so she stayed in with Abraham while Connor and Chris hit the shops. They did some truly excellent shopping and then upon their return we all headed out for lunch and a visit to an art gallery. We returned to the hotel late afternoon and called it a night. Ordered room service. Put the 'do not disturb' sign out and hit the sack!!
This morning -- in response to Connor's need for (1) some activity other than driving in a car, sightseeing or going to a restaurant and (2) some Connor-focused attention -- we decided to forgo church in favor of a morning in the pool. Chris and Abraham sat poolside and studied each other in rapt fascination (and thoroughly entertained each other) for two hours while Elizabeth and Connor played in the pool. The air temperature is a bit like October in DC -- cool and crisp with warm spells (Addis Ababa is the third highest capital city in the world) -- but the pools are heated and just felt fantastic. We had a great time, had Sunday brunch at the hotel, returned to the shop to collect our art purchases, did a drive around town with our driver (Tafessa -- who we adore and will have to be the subject of another posting!!) and then headed south about 1.5 hours to a crater lake and a restaurant that sits over it for dinner with the other Gladney families who are here adopting. (Also the subject of another posting!!). And I have made one major omission here, which we will cover in another posting, we met Abraham's birth mother as well. She is young -- probably younger than the 18 years she claims. It was very tough and very emotional but we are grateful that she wanted to meet us. We were able to learn a bit more information about her for Abraham so that when the day comes that he wants to know more about where he comes from, we are able to tell him. Through Gladney, we will be able to send news of Abraham's development as he grows up.
So we are doing well, and now it is getting late. Connor fell asleep in the car on the way back from the restaurant at the crater lake, so it is peaceful and quiet here . . .and we should grab some shut eye while we can . . . so more soon.
Tomorrow we are off to see Lucy (of Rift Valley fame) at the National Museum, visit another art gallery and see a bit more of Addis. We also have it on good authority that the best Italian restaurant in the world (outside of Italy) is here in Addis . . . so we think we'll try it out tomorrow night. The days are flying by and we'll be flying home before we know it . . . so we are making the most of it!!!
2 comments:
LOVE the post! The pictures look great! SO excited to hear that things are going so well. Sorry that poor Abraham had a stomach bug. Glad he is better. Glad to hear that you did indeed get Tafesse; world's best driver. :) I am sure that you are on emotional overload between having the baby, seeing the orphanages, and being impressed by the sweet Ethiopian people (they ARE baby crazy, I know)! Enjoy the rest of your time.
Take care and safe travels home.
Anne :)
Thanks for the updates. Glad that Abraham is feeling better. Very happy that all is going well for you and your expanded family.
See you Thursday. Mom
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